CURT 56412 Vehicle-Side Custom 4-Pin Trailer Wiring Harness, Fits Select Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV, Black

Name: CURT 56412 Vehicle-Side Custom 4-Pin Trailer Wiring Harness, Fits Select Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV, Black
Brand: ‎CURT
SKU: 0612314564125
Price: 85.81 EUR
Availability: InStock

Brand:‎CURT

1.8/5

€
85.81

CURT custom wiring connectors are the easiest way to outfit your vehicle with a CURT trailer wiring connection. They are built with some of the most advanced technology in the industry, and each one is custom-fitted to work with a specific make and model. Some automotive manufacturers install a special socket on the vehicle to be used for vehicle-to-trailer wiring. Although this special socket is not equipped on every vehicle, a CURT custom wiring connector -- also called a T-connector -- utilizes the socket for simple, stress-free installation. Rather than requiring you to cut, splice and solder into your vehicle's wiring system, the custom wiring connector uses a single OEM-compatible plug and instantly provides a standard, universal vehicle-to-trailer wiring connection, typically in the form a 4-way flat. All CURT custom wiring connectors are made vehicle-specific for the easiest possible installation and the best fit. This particular plug-in connector provides a 4-way flat socket and is designed to be a custom wiring option for certain years of the Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV (factory tow package required; to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary hardware to establish a solid connection. It also comes with a dust cover to keep the connector socket clean when not in use. To ensure long-lasting reliability, all CURT custom wiring connectors are thoroughly tested for optimal functionality. Stress is the last thing you should feel when towing a trailer -- whether you're hauling your RV to that favorite camping destination, your ATVs up to the hunting grounds or your fishing boat to the new hidden hotspot. At CURT, we think your towing equipment should add to the enjoyment of your experience, not detract from it.

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EAN: 0612314564125

Categories Automotive, Exterior Accessories, Towing Products & Winches, Hitch Accessories, Wiring,

DUST COVER. To promote long-lasting use and weather resistance, this 4-pole trailer lighting wire harness comes with a rubber dust cover. It easily fits onto the 4-way flat connector when not in use, protecting it against the outdoor elements. RELIABLE POWER. This 4-way trailer wiring harness is built with surface mount technology. This type of circuitry generates less heat, optimal light intensity and durable performance. VEHICLE-SPECIFIC. This aftermarket, vehicle-trailer wiring harness is designed for select years of the Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV (factory tow package required). STANDARD CONNECTOR. This plug-in 4-flat trailer wiring can be used to connect trailer tail lights, brake signal lights and turn signals. 4-way trailer light wiring is popular on a wide variety of trailers, adding versatile towing options for your vehicle. EASY TO INSTALL. No cutting! No splicing! This trailer wiring harness kit plugs into existing factory wiring on your vehicle and equips it with a standard, rear 4-pin trailer wiring connector for plugging in and towing a trailer.

Brand	‎CURT
Country of Origin	‎Mexico
Customer Reviews	2.7 2.7 out of 5 stars 17 ratings 2.7 out of 5 stars
Item model number	‎56412
Item Weight	‎15.7 ounces
Manufacturer	‎CURT
Manufacturer Part Number	‎56412
Model	‎Custom Wiring
Product Dimensions	‎9 x 6 x 3 inches

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Scritto da: L. Vang

Annoying Install but here are some tips

Wow!!! Not a fun install at all, but who said life was easy?!?! Everything I am sharing is assuming you e followed the curt instructions up to the point of connecting the adapters. Prior reviews have decent info about the reversed adapter/connector. My last photo shows the correct pin placement which other reviewers have also shared, thank you!! Key to remove is to pop open the flat piece/tab on the side, that unlocks the pins, then just as important is to use a super small flat head, like those for eye glasses, or another tiny needle like tool to remove each wire/pin. Each one is held down in their slot by another super tiny tab. If you look you’ll see a horizontal slit, use your tool and lift that plastic slit up and at the same time pull out the wire on opposite end. Easier with two people. Alone, sucks but doable. I’ve provided pictures and labeled each with the proper steps to access the vehicle connector piece. In picture 1, you’ll see another screw you can remove to give yourself a little more space. Number 2, is the panel tab you’ll need to gently pull out. Number 3 is a plastic fastener/screw that you pull out gently as well. In picture 4, you will find the connector taped down to that piece back there. Carefully use a box cutter/blade and make a few slices to remove the tape wrapped around it. This part stinks big time because you have the space of a couple fists to work with. Once you free it, you can then use the curt connector and connect the two pieces. I actually snaked the wires under the vehicle panels otherwise the wires will dangle out looking fugly! So, painstakingly, I had to undo the pins again, zip tied the wires together to snake easier behind the car panels, snaked the wires under the panels closest to the door hatch, cut and remove zip tie, then reconnected the curt connector again in the correct sequence. Instructions also don’t tell you that in the second little baggy, there is a red connector piece you’ll need to twist the red wire into it then attach to the positive battery terminal. Lastly, I did not drop the 4-flat wire through the panels to the outside as there are no instructions on how to do that so I’ll save that battle for another day. I left I’m hanging out in the back left cubby, which seems to work fine. Maybe someone will provide those instructions in the future. Hope this helps. Peace and blessing

Scritto da: Amazon Customer

Re-pinning necessary (with instructions on how I did it)

I'll tell you how I rewired it, although I would say this is a project for someone with at least some experience with car wiring (maybe car audio or the like). After reading the reviews, I bought this knowing their might be a wiring issue. I was hoping maybe it was just a bad batch, but mine was the same. I agree with many of the previous reviews. This is an issue that a company like Curt should fix. The instruction pictures are terrible. But I couldn't find another brand that would support the OEM wiring harness. So this is what I did. First, pull out the tray with that holds the jack and covers the battery (5 screws). Remove the screw that holds the cover for the tailgate door support. This will allow you to move it out of the way. I bent a metal piece that supports the rubber gasket, but just removed it and it seems OK. I think if you're careful, you could avoid that. Remove the trim piece that covers the bottom of the rear hatch. You can just pull up. No screws. Then loosen the driver side lower interior panel (4 screws I think, including the cargo net holders and one over the wheel well). You should be able to get enough access (about 3-4 inch gap) to look behind the panel. There is a second panel inside that can be loosened without any screws. Behind the the second you will find the wiring harness connector taped to another wiring bundle. I was able to separate them with difficulty. So here's where you need to make some changes to the Curt harness. If you plug in the harness as is, you will notice the wires in the vehicle side do not match up with the wires in the Curt harness. It appears Curt pinned the connector inverted (a mirror image). It seems like Curt was maybe looking at the wiring plan for the vehicle side of the connector rather than the trailer side. I am no expert at re-pinning, but was able to do it. First, there is a strip across the Curt connect close to the wires that needs to be pried up about 1/8". This locks the pins into place. All the wires, except for the bottom row center, need to be moved (4 of the 5 wires). I removed one pin at a time by pushing it out with a very small screwdriver, and moved it to the opposite side. Press the locking bar back down. Once you've done that, make sure it looks like the wires in the Curt harness seem to line up with the wires in the vehicle harness. It worked perfectly. I actually put the Curt box in the battery tray area and routed the trailer wiring wo I can retrieve it through the neg battery terminal access door. This would be a 5 start product if it didn't require modification.

Scritto da: Jaydee Griffith

Check the vehicle-side tow harness pins

Overall the tow harness seems to be working fine. The only reason it's 3 stars is because, like others in the reviews, I had an issue where one brake light wouldn't turn on, the other brake light was constant, and no turn signals. After fighting the wiring for longer than I care to admit, it appears Curt had a batch of wiring harnesses that had the pins reversed in the connector for the factory tow harness plug. If you run in to a lighting issue out of the box, I recommend you use a test light and ensure the pin order is correct on the Curt plug to the Mitsubishi connector. Once I figured out the issue, I was able to use a straight pick to disassemble the connector and reconfigure to the proper pin placement.

Scritto da: Jacob Glynn

Pin locations are wrong, you must adjust them to get it to work

Just like everyone else, my wiring was messed up. I bought a 4 pin tester and ran through everything and determined that the factory pin set does not alight with the pin set that the vehicle has that you plug in to. Once I determined that, I found the tab on the top of the wiring harness and used a mini screwdriver to pop it up. Once up, I used the same mini screwdriver to place on top of the pin of the wiring harness and pry up while simultaneously pulling on that cable from behind to pop it out. After a ton of time troubleshooting I was able to find the right pin selection to plug the harness in (last picture where everything is plugged in). Ran through all my tests on the tester and got exactly what I needed (tail lights, brake lights, and turn signals). I installed the positive directly to the battery under the terminal nut and then used the ground screw to ground right next to the negative on the frame. Thank you to all those who came before me for the ideas, I’m just adding some pictures and what the finalized outcome looks like for me. Best of luck!

Scritto da: Vish

Thank you everyone

Thank you so much Jacob Glynn and others for doing the research and finding out the correct pin-out. Re-wired the connector as recommended and it works like a charm on my 2021 outlander PHEV

Scritto da: TheBeerBaron

Does not work...Pinout doesn't match 2018 Outlander PHEV

Followed the site and obtained the correct model for my Mitsubishi PHEV and it does not work all. Very disappointed and is a waste of money. Everyone who bought this is having the same problem so there is clearly a problem that Curt has yet to confirm. So ridiculous that they won't validate this is not compatible when there are so many people here having the same problem and a Facebook group with dozens of people with the same problem!!! My right tail light lit up only, and nothing else. Turn signals, hazard lights, running lights. Same as everyone here. Curt do something about this as I can't get a refund and we are all wasting our money here...bloody criminals.

Scritto da: John Mac Neil

NOT FOR CANADIAN VEHICLES

I installed and only have a R/R brake light on constantly. Although I can not find any indication that this was not for Canadian Vehicles this is what I was told when I contacted the mfg. so don't buy it. Anyone from Canada should insure they don't make the same mistake.

Scritto da: richard gervais

ne marche pas

ne marche pas