CURT 13390 Class 3 Trailer Hitch, 2-Inch Receiver, Exposed Main Body, Fits Select Subaru Legacy, Outback

Brand:CURT

3.7/5

646.68

Whatever your task at hand -- whether it's launching that boat before daybreak, setting up your camper before the rush or getting a final load to the dump before close -- CURT class 3 trailer hitches offer the strength needed for serious towing. They make it easy to hitch up and Bring It, offering a vehicle-specific fit and the weight capacity to handle a variety of trailers. Custom class 3 hitches are the most common type of receiver hitch for pickup trucks and SUVs. Because of their weight range, they are also found on full-size cars, crossovers and minivans. Each custom-fit class 3 hitch package is made for vehicle-specific mounting. This particular kit fits certain years of the Subaru Legacy and Outback (see application info to verify vehicle compatibility). It provides a weight carrying capacity of 4,000 lbs. GTW and 600 lbs. TW. CURT class 3 trailer hitches are typically used to attach and haul utility trailers, boat trailers, campers, snowmobile or ATV haulers and more (NOTE: Never exceed the lowest-rated towing component). Each class 3 hitch has a 2" receiver tube and is tested in accordance with SAE J684 for safety. To ensure that CURT class 3 receiver hitches have what it takes for serious trailering, they are designed using a hands-on approach and are constructed with rugged, high-strength steel and precise welding. We also protect our class 3 hitches in a co-cured finish of liquid A-coat and black powder coat for superior resistance to rust, chipping and UV damage.

Limited lifetime warranty to original purchaser. Hitch Ball & Ball Mount sold separately. Never exceed vehicle weight rating. Gross trailer weights (GTW) and tongue weights (TW) vary by application. 2 inch receiver tube opening. EASY TO INSTALL. This hitch offers a custom, factory fit on select model years of the Subaru Legacy and Outback. RUST, CHIP, UV-RESISTANT. This tow hitch is protected with a unique dual-coat finish of rust-resistant liquid Bonderite and highly durable black powder coat. The two finishes are co-cured together for exceptional resistance to rust, chipping and UV rays. FULLY TESTED. Every CURT class 3 trailer hitch design is tested in real-world, on-vehicle conditions at our Detroit engineering facility. Aftermarket hitches are tested according to SAE J684 standards for the utmost safety while hauling. VERSATILE DESIGN. This class 3 hitch equips your vehicle with a standard 2-inch x 2-inch hitch receiver, allowing for a wide variety of towing options. It can accept a ball mount, cargo carrier, bike rack, tow hook and much more. DEPENDABLE STRENGTH. This trailer hitch is rated for 4,000 lbs. gross trailer weight and 600 lbs. tongue weight (limited to lowest-rated towing component). Material-Carbon Steel. Drilling Required.
Brand CURT
Brand ‎CURT
Country of Origin ‎USA
Customer Reviews 4.6 4.6 out of 5 stars 372 ratings 4.6 out of 5 stars
Exterior ‎GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT
Finish Type GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer ‎No
Item model number ‎13390
Item Weight 35 Pounds
Item Weight ‎35 pounds
Manufacturer ‎CURT
Manufacturer Part Number ‎13390
Material Carbon Steel
Model ‎Class 3 Hitch
OEM Part Number ‎13390
Product Dimensions ‎18 x 42 x 12 inches
Vehicle Service Type Pickup Trucks, Marine-Personal-Craft, ATV, Car, Sport-Utility-Vehicles, Snowmobile, Trailer

3.7

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Scritto da: Cindy
Nice hitch, great quality, but so-so instructions.
Pros: 1. Made in USA. 2. Excellent Workmanship/finish 3. Heavy Duty 4. Looks nice after installation. 5. Nice hardware kit Cons: 1. Weak Instructions. Ok...Kudos to those who posted tips on installation. If you have a few tools, you can install this without too much trouble. Extra Tools Used: 1. Dremell tool with cutting disk 2. Floor Jack 3. sharpie marker 4. small telescoping magnetic pickup tool (pen-size) 5. Rust inhibitor paint or coating (for where you drill the car) Recommended steps: 1. Open the hatch and remove everything lining the floor in the trunk area. The foam surrounds on either side of the spare tire will come out. They are held in by some plastic clips. Grip the foam on either side of the clips as close to them as possible and give a quick, firm tug straight up. It feels at first like they will break, but they will not. they will fly off though, so be careful and watch where they go! 2. Under the car, if you can do so, unbolt the muffler on at the first connector just upstream from the muffler. If your car is new, this will be fairly easy. This will make getting the rubber supports from on the muffler easy to remove. Otherwise, be prepared to wrestle with them, as they do not come off easily otherwise. If the bolts are not cooperative, use some PB Blaster on the bolts to help break them loose, or get new ones to replace the old and cut them off. I was able to get my floor jack under the muffler to help support it. 3. Remove the heat shield. Set this aside. Do not cut it per the instructions just yet. 4. The instructions say to enlarge holes on the underside of the car. Do NOT do this. In northern climates, this will expose the car to additional road salt. Instead, inside the trunk towards the seat, on each frame rail you will see a hole covered with a circle of black tape. Remove the tape. Place the bolt on each hole and trace it with the sharpie. Using the dremel tool, enlarge the hole with the cutting wheel. If you take your time, you can make a nice cut. The only real discerning thing is that you realize how thin the sheet metal is! 5. This is where the floor jack came in handy. I positioned the jack under the center of the car and lifted the hitch into place. as you get close to the car, align the bolt holes closest to the bumper and push the hitch up firmly against the car with the floor jack. 6. Back to the instructions. Follow the instructions for inserting the bolts. The wires that guide the bolts and washers work slick, but require some patience. I ended up using a small telescoping magnet to "catch" the end of the wire and pull it through the hole. Guide the bolt and washer through the holes closest to the bumper. run the nut up and tighten firmly. 7. With the hitch now in place, use it as a guide to drill the hole locations on the hitch where none exist on the car. Repeat the method for inserting the bolts in the holes you just drilled. Tighten up the nuts, and you have now mounted the hitch. Drop the floor jack and remove it. 8. Heat shield modification. Take the heat shield and hold it up close where it mounts. You just covered one of the mounting holes, so it will need cut to fit now. The instructions have you cutting off more of the shield than needed. You can do a nicer job if you do it this way. If you are like me, and the jagged edge bothers you, leave a little extra material on the shield and using pliers you can add hem bend along the edge you cut. Reinstall. 9. Using the floor jack again, lift the muffler back up in to place. Get the rubber supports back on the shafts they mount to. Bolt the muffler back to the pipes. You are now done on the underside of the car. 10. dress the hole if you cut with the dremel too with the rust inhibitor. I covered these holes with electrical tape. put all the stuff you removed from the truck back in, reverse order, of course. Button everything up and you are ready to go. I gave this 5 starts due to the quality of the hitch. Without online help to clarify and simplify the installation, I would have given this a 3 or 4 stars, as I would have wrestled with it. Instead, it went pretty smooth. My approximate installation time was 2.5 hours, as I took my time and pre-fit some things. If you are not handy or have the tools recommended, get some help from someone who does. It will save you from some frustrations.
Scritto da: Caroline
challenging installation, but solidly built.
The instructions are garbage so throw those out immediately. Get yourself a 10mm socket, 3/4" socket with an extension, a breaker bar and most importantly: 1" step drill bit! You need to drill through the frame in order to "fish" the bolts through. Now that sounds frustrating and it is, but it actually worked really well and I got them fished through without issue. When you're finished that 1" hole will be exposed to the road elements, the other covered by the exhaust shield. You need to cover that hole or debris/water will get in the frame and rust it out from the inside. I actually used a mason jar lid and metal drywall anchor to patch the hole. Other than the tedious install, it was well worth it. Solid construction and looks discrete.
Scritto da: Amazon Customer
Sturdy, self installation was fine.
First off, I have not towed with this unit yet. So I can't speak to that yet. Although I don't expect any trouble in that area. This review will cover my initial impressions and installation. The unit is sturdy and the welds and construction look solid. The paint is well applied and I expect it to hold up for a long time against the elements. Installation. I put this on a 2010 Subaru Outback. I can vouch that it fits for that. When I first put it into position to take a look, I noticed it is pretty snug against the wheel well of the spare tire. I was concerned at first but not at the end. It fits, it's just close. The installation went pretty much exactly like the video. Lower the exahaust a little, remove and modify the heat shield, drill the frame and bolt the thing on. The clever tool to fish the hardware through the frame works well and I had no trouble with it. I worked slowly and deliberately to avoid trouble with that part of the installation. I'd say it took maybe 90 minutes all told. About what I expected. The only challenge is the muffler being in the way. It's jsut in the way a little on the one side. But, it did not stop me from doing what I needed to do. More of an irritant than an obstacle. If the muffler bolts/nuts weren't rusted and frozen together, I would have removed it to make things easier. Also, I did order the tool to pop the rubber hanger supports out for the exhaust. That thing made it SO easy that I have to recommend that - otherwise you can wrestle with the things until you get the hangers out. On installation, I put anti-seize on eveything including the bolts for the heat shield too. Just a tip for anyone doing this in the northeast. I am happy with the fit, look, and installation of this unit and I expect it to serve my needs well: Bike rack and light towing.
Scritto da: David Shuttleworth
NO PROBLEM INSTALATION
It took very little time for the two of us to install. It is very solid and well constructed
Scritto da: Gary
Great Purchase
Towed a uhaul across the country with out a worry. It was easy to install and was great value. Happily recommend.
Scritto da: Amazon Customer
Great quality
Easy install instructions and hauks well
Scritto da: Steeve
Perfect fit
Strongly recommend this. Instructions are very clear and accurate. Tough built. If you're looking for a hitch, this one is a no brainer, period.
Scritto da: Cong
It doesn’t fit outback2022
Be careful!Subaru Outback 2022 should chose another product.

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